constant frustration and occasional bouts with death

In general I consider myself to be a pretty on top of it sort of guy, but for anyone who would object to that, let me just say I have been stacking up points in your favor for this past week. I have been a shit show... I am blaming it on the heat, the language barrier, and the endless travel hours, but if you would prefer to just hold it against me, I guess that's fine too.

In my last entry I mentioned the paralyzing heat... I only now know how horribly I underestimated it. 20 minuets after I finished my first real entry heat exhaustion swept over me in a very big way. I was spending hours at time in cold showers and still the fever would not break. When night fell and the temp finally dropped, I got an edge on it, but what I thought to be the end of the mess proved to be the first of many dehydration problems. I now soak my towel in ice water before I leave each morning and I wander around wearing it as though it were a scarf. Brittany is enforcing hydration protocol and still I find myself falling behind.

We flew from Siem Reap into Laos, on board Laos airlines. I could go into deep detail about that alone, but for now I will leave it at saying "Laos airlines... Good food, bad pilots."When we arrived in Laos we spent the first day chasing phantom mosquito nets, and following Lonely Planet's directions in search of a fabled silk market that we never confirmed to be real. At the end of the most frustrating day I can remember, we decided to cut our losses and head to Luang Prabang earlier than expected. All we had to do was wake up at 7:00 book a bus ticket and wait for it to pick us up. At 11:00 pm reading that ATM's in the country, were few and far between, I had a curve ball thrown into the mix. With that I was up at 6:00 and I was shooting across town via rented motor-bike to pull my budget for the next two weeks. Then while I was trying to divide 2,000,000 by 8,450 (Yeah Lao Kip are hilarious) the ATM decided I was taking too long and took my card. So with only a few dollars and an American Express that is accepted no where, I was feeling pretty stuck. I shot back to the room, rallied Britt, and we set out to tie up loose ends. Britt changed our bus plan, and I zigzagged across town to Internet cafes and bank branch offices figuring out how to get my card back. We had it all figured out by noon with time to spare before our mid afternoon bus departure.

Vang Viene was as far as we would get. Luang Prabang and my birthday plans would have to wait a day. The bus was supposed to take 4 hours, which would put us in Vang Viene at 6PM. So when we were sitting on the side of the road next to a broken down bus at 8 o'clock at night I snapped. All I wanted was a cold beer, and an even colder shower. Neither one produced itself until nearly midnight, but the former came up in a big way.

A young German couple that we befriended on the bus caught word that my birthday was fast approaching and when midnight hit I was quickly introduced to the German pace of drinking. Beer Laos had its way with me and then it left Britt to pick up the pieces in the morning. Hangovers, hot humid weather, and dehydration are a dangerous mix. Add in the malaria med that didn't sit well and there I was, scared for my life on a hostile floor in Vang Viene. I survived, but you get the picture. I will spare you the details and just say that this morning could have gone better.

I have separated this afternoon, into an entirely different day in my mind though. The hell ride that was this morning, ended with the conclusion of the 6 hour bus ride to Luang Prababg. LP is what I came to Laos to see, and from the moment we rolled into town it did not disappoint.

Brittany had a beautiful guest house picked out for my belated birthday celebration, and dinner overlooking the Mekong was amazing. Spicy prawns, coconut milk soup, a watermelon fruit shake and fish steamed in Banana Leaves... Luang Prabang is a quiet vacation from our vacation. Not to mention a textile enthusiasts paradise. Hand dyed umbrellas, silver bracelets, turquoise and jade necklaces, and silk everything... You name it, and some one is hand crafting it here; selling it, almost haggle free, at prices that make you feel like a thief. The more I am here, the more I like it. There is something comforting in all the colors, and given how this day started, a more comforting close is doing me well.